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We’ve never been big fans of “Here We Come A-Wassailing,” that D-level Christmas carol about neighborhood brats begging for money in exchange for an off-key version of “Silent Night.” But we’ve been behind this holiday beer — one of the craft brewing industry’s oldest and best-known — for years. This year’s release doesn’t disappoint: Practically black with a thick tan head, the beer releases a superhoppy aroma that’s mildly sticky, solidly toffeelike, and fairly alcoholic. The mouthfeel’s full-bodied with significant alcohol warmth — the perfect vehicle to deliver the beer’s deep, sweet flavors. Blueberry and caramel sing in the front of the swallow with backup from floral, peppery hop bitterness. Toffee sweetness hits a high note in the finish, which we can guarantee will resonate better than little Johnny from down the street’s high C.